Book Review: Perfume – A Century of Scents
Author: Lizzie Ostrom
Published: 2017
Genre: Cultural History, Fashion, Fragrance Studies
Introduction
Perfume: A Century of Scents by Lizzie Ostrom is a fascinating exploration of how perfumes reflect the social, cultural, and emotional history of the 20th century. Rather than being a technical guide to perfumery, the book presents fragrance as a powerful storyteller—capturing changing lifestyles, gender roles, fashion trends, and collective memories across decades.
Overview and Structure
The book is structured decade by decade, starting from the early 1900s and moving through to the 2000s. Each chapter connects iconic perfumes with:
- Historical events
- Fashion movements
- Shifts in identity and self-expression
Ostrom blends perfume history with social commentary, making the book accessible even to readers with no prior knowledge of fragrances.
Key Themes
1. Perfume as Cultural History
The book argues that perfumes are not just luxury products but cultural artifacts. Scents reflect:
- Post-war optimism
- Women’s liberation
- Youth rebellion
- Minimalism and modernism
For example, bold fragrances of the 1980s symbolize excess and power, while cleaner scents of the 1990s reflect simplicity and globalism.
2. Iconic Fragrances and Their Stories
The author discusses legendary perfumes such as:
- Chanel No. 5
- Dior Miss Dior
- Calvin Klein CK One
Each scent is tied to the era in which it became popular, revealing how perfume marketing evolved alongside changing social values.
3. Gender and Identity
Ostrom highlights how perfume has played a role in shaping gender identity:
- Early perfumes reinforced femininity and elegance
- Later scents challenged gender norms, introducing unisex fragrances
This makes the book particularly relevant to modern discussions of identity and self-expression.
Writing Style and Presentation
- The tone is engaging, witty, and conversational
- Rich descriptions make scents feel vivid despite being intangible
- The book includes illustrations, advertisements, and photographs, enhancing reader engagement
Some readers may find the scent descriptions abstract, but this reflects the challenge of writing about smell.
Strengths
✔ Unique blend of fragrance and social history
✔ Easy-to-read and visually appealing
✔ Appeals to both perfume lovers and general readers
✔ Strong storytelling approach
Limitations
✘ Less focus on technical perfume-making processes
✘ Eurocentric emphasis on Western fragrance history
✘ Readers seeking scientific depth may want more detail
Significance and Impact
Perfume: A Century of Scents stands out as an important work in olfactory culture studies. It helps readers understand how scent influences memory, identity, and emotion while documenting perfume’s evolution alongside modern society.
